Your Food Guide to Italy: Rome Edition
Ciao, Amici!
Welcome to part two of our three-part guide showing you where to eat, stay and play during your next trip to Italy. If you’ve been following along, you probably already salivated over every fried pizza shop, sfogliatelle and plate of freshly caught seafood crudo that we shared in our guide to Naples.
Shifting gears into the next city has admittedly taken far longer than I anticipated… Partially because every time I sit down to write I’m distracted by how amazing it felt to get lost in Italy’s cobblestone city streets, desperately searching for the perfect bowl of Carbonara.
Spoiler alert: this guide is going to tell you exactly where to find it and more, so SIT TIGHT.
Today, I’m transporting you to the magical heart of Rome. Italy’s Eternal city that’s home to ancient architecture, convivial osterias serving classic Roman cuisine and rich history dating back to 753 BC. And yes, of course, the Roman Empire, which apparently has a permanent residence in the minds of every man on planet Earth.
If this is our first time meeting, I’m so happy you landed here. I’m Melissa Santell, a food photographer and marketing consultant in the hospitality industry. I grew up in an Italian-American family in New York, where we spent Sundays savoring sauce, conversation and talking with our hands over plates of rigatoni. Bryce Bonsack, a Michelin Star chef and my boyfriend, is who’s to thank for co-authoring this guide. Prior to opening his own Italian restaurant, Rocca, Bryce worked his way through some of New York City’s most iconic Michelin-Starred kitchens. He also spent a year abroad living in Italy where he learned how to hone the Italian craft by cooking and exploring — aka living the damn DREAM.
We visited Italy for two weeks in February of 2024 and haven’t stopped thinking about our adventures since. This guide is inspired by all of our favorite dining experiences, historical sites and memories made during our time there. I should also note that it’s the result of countless hours of pre-vacation research, recommendations from friends in the industry and spontaneously stumbling upon little gems we couldn’t help but share.
It means the world to us that you’re reading this, and when you do find yourself in Italy, be sure to let us know when you’re hitting up any of our recommendations. We’d love to hear about your experience! Better yet, tag us on your Instagram stories (Melissa / Bryce), so we can vicariously live through you.
Cheers to exploring all that Roma has to offer.
xox,
Melissa + Bryce
PART 2: ROME
Rome is a city that reminds you of how many generations of existences thrived before you. While it’s a big bustling mecca, it’s also a place where you can fall in love with your person all over again, find enchantment nearly everywhere you look and rediscover things about yourself you may have seemingly forgotten. Being in its presence is an invitation to slow down and savor every moment of preserved history in the midst of biting into a forkful of Amatriciana. Don’t be surprised if your new favorite form of entertainment becomes curiously people watching strangers who pass by. If it’s your first time visiting Rome, I recommend staying for 4-6 nights to fully soak it all up. You’re never going to want to go home.
What to Wear in Rome in February
February is a wonderful time to visit Rome. It’s a season that comes with lower tourism, the opportunity to rock layered outfits and my personal favorite, shorter lines for gelato. The average daily temperature in the city during February ranges from 38°F in the mornings and evenings to 57°F during the day time. Most days, I found myself wearing a leather or waterproof jacket based on the forecast, and transitioning into a heavier peacoat at night. The silver lining is, since you’re visiting in February there’s an “end of winter sale” around nearly every corner of Rome. So, when you leave your hotel and you’re chillier than you’d like to be, it’s super easy and convenient to pop into a store for a discounted sweater or scarf. Who could deny a new wardrobe staple that commemorates your trip to Italy? I fell in love with a few vintage shops in the Monti neighborhood, but I’ll tell you more about those later. Here’s what we (over)packed for Rome during our 3-night stay:
Dark wide legged jeans (with zero rips)
Black skinny jeans (I know they’re out of style in the US, but they’re in here, baby!)
Tailored pants
Leather pants
Leggings (for travel days)
2 jumper dresses
3 evening dresses for dinner
3 pairs black opaque tights
4 long-sleeve blouses / light sweaters
Black turtle neck
Short sleeve shirts
2 blazers for layering
Hoodie
Leather jacket or bomber jacket
Light rain coat
Umbrella
Pea coat
Scarves
Black Booties
Comfortable sneakers (I wore sneakers every day, booties every night)
Dress shoes, for the men, yes, I’m looking at you
Miniature backpack!! I have a mini leather one, thanks to a purchase my mother made in the 1980’s, and take it everywhere.
Cross body purse (get one with a zipper so you feel more secure)
Perfume // cologne
Point and shoot camera, for those who love capturing memories on film
Portable phone stand, for my friends who aspire to be IG travel influencers
Ear plugs
Eye masks (I love these!! I keep them in the fridge and put them under my eyes after long nights of drinking too much wine… I promise you’ll have those in Rome, haha)
A solid book to read on your downtime - the Court of Thorns and Roses series has me HOOKED right now
Where to Stay in Rome
Now that I’m in my 30’s and have high expectations for where I rest my head, a “not-as-pictured, makes you want to crawl out of your skin” hotel has the uncanny ability to derail any travel experience. When booking a hotel I’ve learned to consult discerning sites like Condé Nast Traveler, Tablet and the newly minted Michelin Key before making a selection. Aside from an obvious high endorsement, I look for hotels in a central location with walkability, 24/7 concierge and 5-star google reviews backed by pictures taken by guests. If the hotel has a solid food and beverage program and spa amenities, it’s an added bonus. Am I a little zany, yet boujee about deciding where to stay? Yes. Are you directly benefitting from said over-excitement? Double yes.
With that, I’m excited to introduce you to Sentho Roma, a boutique hotel located in a restored palazzo in the center of Rome’ Monti neighborhood. In Monti, you’ll have access to nightlife, boutique vintage and designer resale stores and a 15-20 minute stroll to almost every major landmark, including the colosseum. The hotel sits next to the Basilica of Santa Prudenziana, Rome’s oldest Christian church, and overlooks a gorgeous courtyard. Upon wiping the sleep away from your eyes in the morning, you’ll open your hotel room curtains to a lush garden and view of the Basilica’s bell tower.
What we loved about the hotel:
The furnishings and atmosphere were elegant, modern and thoughtful. When you walk in, you’re tempted to take a photo of the bar and common area. It’s that attractive.
It was insanely cost effective compared to other hotels within the same caliber!
We booked the junior suite that overlooked the courtyard and it did not disappoint. It was spacious and had a closet big enough to fit all of our luggage… a major win for an Italian hotel! Our room had a separate living area with a dining table and bench, a kitchenette stocked with coffee and tea, and came with a complimentary bottle of red wine.
It was ultra quiet and you rarely saw other guests in the common areas, with the exception of breakfast. Great if you’re in couple or solo mode and not entirely interested in mingling at the hotel. Probably less great if you’re looking for company while sipping a negroni at the bar. I can’t promise you’ll find it there.
Their concierge team was wildly attentive and helpful during our entire stay. There was always someone to greet you or ask if you needed anything, and they were genuinely hospitable. We were there during Valentine’s Day and Bryce coordinated an in-room flower delivery with them. It was the sweetest touch that I’ll remember forever. They also called a handful of yoga studios on my behalf to check on class times and whether or not they were offered in English.
Rooftop terrace bar was chic and classy. A high selling point, indeed.
Call me crazy, but bathroom amenities tell me everything I need to know about the guest who’s staying at said hotel. Sentho offered complimentary toiletries by Ortigia Florio, a Sicilian luxury brand I’ve grown fond of. Their packaging alone was enough to sway me. Even by American standards, their walk-in shower and bathroom was large and comfortable.
What would have made it better:
The spa was still under construction, so we couldn’t check it out. I will say, based on where it was located (level with the garden) it would have made for a very luxurious, relaxing experience.
While we considered it to be really well located, if most of your itinerary is based around being at sites like the Trevi Fountain or the Vatican, you’ll have to hop into an Uber or taxi to get there. Not terrible, but worth mentioning. It’s slightly off the beaten path out of the chaos, giving it a sanctuary vibe.
Address + Website:
Via Urbana, 158, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
Where to Eat in Rome
Aroma
A Michelin Star tasting menu restaurant overlooking the most romantic Roman icon: the colosseum. We went for Valentine’s Day and truly enjoyed the ambiance, intimacy of the space and attention to detail in the overall experience. Throughout our evening there was a violinist playing love songs in between champagne sips. It couldn’t of been more perfect.
Testaccio market
For a glass-roofed market experience, hop in an Uber and casually arrive at Testaccio’s community market. With nearly 100 stalls, this sprawling market offers an opportunity to graze your way through produce stands, fishmongers, delis and butchers, all while getting your daily steps in.
During our visit, we ordered classic Roman snacks like suppli alla romana, fried artichokes, carbonara pizza and puntarelle salad. I also splurged for a small box of raspberries, in an effort to convince myself I was eating healthy (LOL). Amongst these locally treasured vendors, you’ll find a mash up of fast casual restaurants, bread bakeries and vegetable stalls, and a retail section encompassing everything from vintage rugs to handmade leather boots made in Italy. And it’s not just serving up Italian cuisine either. Greek bites, poké bowls, Thai food and even smoothies are hiding around any given corner. It’s the perfect chance to explore multiple cuisines without committing to a series of sit-down dining experience. Located at Via Aldo Manuzio, 66b, Rome, Italy.
Amarena Gelato by the Spanish Steps
Gelato arguably tastes incredible regardless of where you consume it in Italy. It’s just one of those nostalgic foods you crave the moment you step off the plane, and there’s seemingly never a wrong time for it. Gelato, the moment after you’ve crushed an 8:30am espresso? Sì. Gelato, when your tour guide finally dismisses you from the 3-hour museum tour? Sì. Gelato, under the moonlight even though you’re positively stuffed from eating a multi-course Italian feast? Resounding sì.
Visiting Amarena Gelato’s tiny shop at the bottom of the Spanish Steps may feel touristy, but you’ll be licking silky, creamy gelato in front of one of Rome’s iconic landmarks … and every luxury designer store front you can imagine. Cherry and pistachio is my go to combination for a two scoop situation. Bryce loves pairing cherry with stractiatella. You can’t miss it.
L’arcangelo
When in Rome, it’s nearly mandatory to sample every restaurant’s preparation of Carbonara and Amitriciana. L’arcangelo’s award-winning menu was a silent invitation to do exactly that.
This intimate restaurant is what I can only describe as being cozy, no frills and classically Roman. There’s a warmness you feel upon being seated and getting settled into your new temporary home for the evening. It’s echoed by the Chef and owner occasionally popping his head out of the kitchen window to check for satisfied facial expressions from guests, and miniature toy cars stationed on the perimeter of every table for children who appreciate a damn good plate of risotto.
In addition to the pastas mentioned above, we ordered chicory contorno de Testaccio Market and a gorgeous starter of wild herbs topped with a soft boiled egg and cherry juice.
Da Enzo al 29
They say “the best things are worth waiting for,” and Da Enzo al 29 solidly falls under that category. This little trattoria is located in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood, serving unfiltered Roman cuisine… and IT IS NON-NEGOTIABLE.
It’s one of the Italian meals I consistently still think about from from the comfort of my giant velvet couch in Tampa, and will continue to tell everyone about until the day I expire. When dining at Da Enzo, you can expect to be blessed with flawless plates of Carbonara and Amitriciana. Listen, I’ve never been a die hard for Carbonara (unless Bryce makes it for me at Rocca), but I was fully immersed in Da Enzo’s al dente rigatoni, coated in a glossy bath of egg, cheese and guanciale. *kisses pinched fingers and opens them to the sky*
While you’re there, be sure to order the carcofi alla Romana (a Roman signature!), puntarelle salad and mascarpone cream adorned with the freshest baby strawberries. Get there 30-45 minutes before it opens, because there will be a LINE. Again, worth every minute of anticipation.
Antico Forno Roscioli
If you live in New York City, you may have already been introduced to this Roman institution backed by more than 200 years of history. The NYC location is inspired by 4 Roscioli concepts, each with a claim to different Italian artisan areas of focus, born in the Eternal city.
The first, Antico Forno Roscioli, boasts being one of the oldest bakeries in the city, dating back to the 1824. It’s known for its undeniable longevity and slinging delicious Roman street food like pizzas cut with kitchen shears to your size preference. So naturally, Bryce had to bite into a slice of history. Pictured here is their Pizzette Rosa, Eggplant + Artichoke Pizza, and my personal favorite, Mortadella + Stracciatella. Check out their salumeria, caffè and experiential wine tasting and pairing restaurant, Rimessa, for a full immersion into Riscioli. It’s such a cool brand!
Flavio al Velavevodetto
You know when you walk into a restaurant and instantly feel an unspoken connection to it? Similar to the feeling of your grandmother spontaneously materializing and a massive wave of comfort and familiarity suddenly makes itself known in your body. You’re relaxed, you’re bright eyed, you’re ready for a rush of double cheek kisses. Well, Flavio was that for us.
You'll find this restaurant at the base of the famous 'mountain' in Testaccio (which is actually the hill of ancient Roman Detritus). Upon stepping down into the main dining room, you’ll be met by an energetic room full of Italians — nonna’s and their families, students, ladies night out goers and everything in between — and a menu that celebrates cooking traditions that have been in the family for generations.
We ordered the Bucatini all’Amitriciana, Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe (shown in the picture to the right), Manzette Pinatte Fritte and Broccoletti. All sealed with an espresso and shot of limoncello for me, and an Amaro for Bryce. If you have extra time before your reservation (and you’ll definitely need a res!), pop into the restaurant next door for a negroni. They’ll seat you outside if you’re just having a cocktail, but fear not, if you’re vacationing in the winter months, the outdoor heaters are plentiful.
Cocktail Bars in Rome
Drink Kong
If you’re on a mission for a cocktail experience to remember, Drink Kong, which also happens to be named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars, is it. With a punchy, yet chic atmosphere, you’ll be lured in for the vibes and will undoubtedly stay for their innovative mixology program. Aside from thoughtfully shaken cocktails, I’m a sucker for cool glassware and Drink Kong did not disappoint in either department. 10/10 reccomend.
Other honorable mentions:
La Punta - Mezcal + tequila bar, also noted by World’s 50 Best
Circoletto - known for it’s natural wine, but serves a commendable cocktail
Latta - trendy, underground + grungy
Argot - speakeasy
Hot Takes + Tips
Attractions: There’s so much to see in Rome, so plan accordingly! I strongly recommend purchasing museum tickets in advance in order to make sure you visit all of the exhibits on your hit list. When in Rome, you must not miss:
Borghese gallery, you’ll want to purchase tickets more than a month ahead of your trip in order to guarantee attending
Trevi Fountain (make a wish there)
Villa Farnesina is a place I didn’t have time to visit, but stands firmly on my list for next time! It’s a two-story villa designed by Baldassare Peruzzi, with fresco decorations by major artists including Raphael.
Money saving tip: Always score tickets directly from the museum website! Third-party sites like Viator often have inflated pricing and ticketing fees. If you’re really into museum hopping, there are tons of options for city passes that come with discounted admissions and perks like free transportation.
Neighborhoods to hang in: While we genuinely enjoyed staying off the beaten path in Monti, next time we visit we’ll likely stay in Trastevere. Trastevere is a hip neighborhood located about 15-20 minutes from all of Rome’s major attractions, yet has a lively personality and identity of its own. We loved all of the restaurant and cafe experiences there, and had the best time wondering through the streets shopping at tiny boutiques. Check out their night market if you’re there in the summer months — we’ll be coming back to experience it!
Rental car: Rome has stellar methods of transportation including metros, trams, buses and trains. Unless you’re planning several day trips out of the city during your stay, skip getting a rental car. Driving in Rome can be hectic and fast-paced. Save the gray hair inducing stress for when you’re racing to the airport to fly home.
Taxi stands vs. Ubers: taxi stands are pretty easy to locate and utilize in Roma (all you have to do is ask your hotel concierge or flag down a local to find a taxi area). Being a major city, Rome offers Uber and we found it to be readily available with one exception. Be sure to plan ahead if you’re visiting during a holiday! We were in Rome during Valentine’s Day and it was literally impossible to hail a taxi or order an Uber. That translated into us walking for 25 minutes and my feet forgiving me for my sins after 3 glasses of wine at dinner.
Yoga Classes. There are a million different kinds of travelers in the world. The ones who refuse to stay at a hotel without a gym. The ones who refuse to step foot inside a room that’s remotely athletic while they’re on vacation. And the ones who simply don’t care either way. I’m none of those people. But, after eating pasta for two weeks straight my body was dying for a deep stretch. I absolutely LOVED practicing yoga at Zem Yoga Studio in their sun-drenched space. It was easy to find and the instructor was sweet. I found this to be one of the more prominent English speaking studios, with a challenging yet approachable class. What was equally as gratifying were the thrift shops lining the studio street. Who doesn’t love a little post-vinyasa shopping?
Vintage Shopping: You don’t need to search far and wide to find major retailers, boutiques and independently owned clothing shops in Roma. However, if you’re craving a vintage, designer resale shopping experience make your way to the cozy neighborhood of Monti. There’s an unexpected treasure trove of shops to explore and they’re virtually right next door to one another. I loved Pifebo, Pulp Vintage (snagged the cutest Moschino knit dress made in 1990 here!) and Blue Goose… and now I’m wishing I could teleport back there.
Safety level: When you’re in any large city, especially one where you don’t speak the language, it’s never a bad idea to be aware of your surroundings. If I was ever walking alone and required Siri or navigation directions, I would wear headphones and listen to the audio instead of looking at my phone to know when and where to turn. Nothing says “I’m lost” like a 5’2 woman staring into a map in the palm of her hand. With that said, we walked around quite late and never felt scared or like we were in a rough neighborhood. Pro tip: even if you despise it, turn on location services with your family and friends when you’re traveling. Everyone will sleep more easily knowing the can stalk your location when you’re having too much fun to answer your phone.